Hair damage: What do I need to know?

Hair damage is an important topic that usually raises a lot of questions; What does hair damage actually mean? What can damage my hair? How do I prevent this?

Taking steps to protect and nurture your hair is the key to maintaining healthy, beautiful locks. In this blog, we’ll break down the science behind hair damage, how to spot it and how to prevent it.

So, what is ‘damaged hair’?

The hair shaft (the visible part of your hair that grows from the scalp) has three main layers, two of which are crucial for strong, healthy hair. You may have heard of the hair cuticle, but if not, it’s the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It consists of overlapping scales that act as a protective shield, defending the inner layers from external damage. When the cuticle layer is healthy, these scales lie flat and help to lock in moisture. 

The cortex, which sits beneath the cuticle, is the thickest layer of the hair shaft. It contains proteins (such as keratin) and bonds that determine the hair’s texture, strength, and elasticity. The cortex is also where natural hair colour is stored.

When heat or chemicals are applied to the hair, the cuticle scales lift, which can allow chemicals such as dye or treatments to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft. However, if these scales remain raised, the cortex can become exposed to damage, which can lead to dryness and breakage. 

What does damaged hair look and feel like?

If you’re unsure whether your hair is damaged, there are some telltale signs:

• Dry, brittle texture
  
  

• Excessive breakage and split ends
  
  

• Dull appearance
  
  

• Frizz and flyaways
  
  

• Colour fading quickly

On their own, these factors may not indicate damage, but together, they could be a sign your hair needs some extra care. If you have questions or concerns about your hair’s health, your stylist can offer advice and recommendations.

What can damage hair?

1. Heat

Excessive heat is one of the most common causes of hair damage. Whether from hairdryers, curlers or other heat tools, high temperatures cause the hair cuticle to lift. This not only makes hair more susceptible to moisture loss but can also weaken the protein structure within the cortex, reducing elasticity and leading to breakage. 

2. Overprocessing

Chemical treatments such as hair dye, bleach, perms and relaxers alter the hair’s structure to achieve the desired look. However, these treatments break down the hair’s natural bonds, making it weaker and more prone to breakage. Over time, repeated chemical exposure can cause damage, including hair thinning and excessive breakage.

3. Harsh Haircare Practices

Overwashing, especially when using shampoos containing sulphates, can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness. Rough towel drying can also cause friction, raising the cuticle and leading to frizz and breakage. Brushing your hair roughly when wet can also lead to breakage, as your hair is at its weakest when it's wet. 

How can I prevent hair damage?

There are a few steps you can take to minimise damage to your hair:

1. Always use a heat protectant

If you regularly use heat tools, a heat protectant spray is essential. These products create a protective barrier that minimises moisture loss and heat-induced protein damage. Blow Dry Lotion is our go-to spray for providing some all-important heat protection, whilst also adding shine to the hair. 

2. Minimize exposure to high temperatures

Even with a heat protectant, excessive heat styling can weaken the hair over time. To reduce damage:

• Use styling tools on the lowest heat setting possible.
  
  

• Limit heat styling to a few times per week.
  
  

• Use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer to distribute heat evenly, which is especially helpful for curly or wavy hair.
  
  

3. Blow dry your hair as your stylist does

Have you ever noticed that your stylist blow-dries your hair a certain way? There’s a reason for that, and it’s to smooth the cuticle, reduce frizz and enhance shine. When drying your hair, hold your hairdryer above your head and aim the nozzle downward toward your ends. Always dry from roots to tips, following the natural fall of the hair. You can also finish with a cool shot of air to lock in shine and reduce frizz.

4. Use detangling products for knots

Brushing out tangles too aggressively can cause unnecessary breakage. To avoid this, use a wide-tooth comb instead of a brush, apply a Moisturising Conditioner or detangler to help ease knots and always start detangling from the ends, working your way up. 

How can I care for damaged hair?

There are several ways you can improve the appearance and feeling of damaged hair, whilst also preventing further damage. 

1. Use Leave-In Treatments

Leave-in conditioners and serums help provide extra moisture and protection throughout the day. Look for ingredients like:

• Proteins (keratin, hydrolyzed silk): Help reinforce the hair structure

• Oils (argan, coconut, jojoba): Lock in moisture and smooth the cuticle

• Humectants (glycerin, aloe vera): Draw moisture into the hair shaft

We’ve previously talked about how leave-in conditioners are a great product for curly hair, as they help to lock in moisture and add a lovely shine. We love Hair Moisturiser, as it helps hair feel soft and shiny, without weighing the hair down. 

2. Deep Condition Regularly

Using a deep conditioning mask can replenish lost moisture and improve hair elasticity. It can also help to leave your hair feeling more supple and manageable, which is perfect for hair that’s prone to tangling. Our hair mask of choice is Hair Treat, which we recommend using once a week as part of your normal haircare routine. 

3. Get Regular Trims

Trimming off split ends prevents further breakage and keeps hair looking healthier and fuller. Even if you’re growing your hair out, we recommend having a trim every 6–8 weeks.

4. Protect Hair While Sleeping

Friction from tossing and turning at night can weaken the cuticle. To protect your hair, sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase, or use a silk bonnet to reduce friction. You can also use a loose braid or silk scrunchie instead of tight hair ties to keep your hair away from your face whilst you sleep.